Hey Michael!

Certainly, some cards just make sense to grade (very high value cards like a '52 Topps Mantle), simply because someone will likely need to sell it eventually, and the counterfiets just flat out hurt the value of ungraded cards. If you like your cards raw, though (which I totally understand), there are some pretty tried-and-true ways to tell fakes from the real deal. Also, it never hurts to learn how to spot the knock-offs because sadly, there are fake slabs out there too, so it's really easy to get burned if you don't know the basics. 

My favorite method is to buy commons from the set in question so you have something in hand to compare. There's nothing like having genuine cards in your hand to get a feel for the set. 

Matt wrote a great guide to getting started: https://cardhoundvintage.com/how-to-spot-counterfeit-sports-cards-quick-start-guide/

If you want to see my pointing out some things on a raw '52 Topps Mantle I bought last year, you can check out this video: https://youtu.be/X6C0PWc5dBE?si=2dLJbf5fET3ElGpU

Also, there's nothing wrong with posting some good scans here. I'm sure this community could give you some solid real/fake opinions. 

-Burl

@dilemma19 I wrote a blog post on this just a couple of weeks ago. 

https://cardhoundvintage.com/how-to-spot-counterfeit-sports-cards-quick-start-guide/

I think it's totally doable to learn to avoid 99% of counterfeits with a little study and practice. 

Justin and Matt did a great job with their points above.  If you also happened to be near a show where grading was being done or something like the Beckett Raw Card review service that could be a fast and inexpensive way for you to get a third part opinion on authenticity as well